The TransAmerica Bike Trail
May-July, 2003

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Email 1

Hello All! Welcome to exciting mass email number 1 of 3ish of the adventures of Kroodsma and Kroodsma sr. across the country by bike.

As these emails are often read by only a few, I will make it easier. I will give you a very quick summary of what we've done so far, and then I will give you a subject and a little blurb about it, giving you the ability to skim and read what interests you. There is a prize for reading the entire email.

QUICK SUMMARY:
 We started in Yorktown Virginia on the banks of the Chesapeak Bay. We have biked for two and a half weeks and 1,000 miles through backroads that avoid all towns except those of 'historic/cultural' importance, and across the entire Appalachian Mountains. Due to mechanical and physical failures, we are far behind schedule. We are in Bardstown Kentucky now.

THE ROUTE WE ARE FOLLOWING
 Is the 'bike-centenial' route from adventure cycling, and probably the most popular route across the country. Detailed maps show us exactly which back roads to take in order to make us properly nastalgic for rural America. We start in Virginia, go west to Colorado, follow the Rockies north to Montana, and then dip down to the Oregon Coast--4,500 miles in all. People along the route are used to seeing bikers, and a many city parks and churches put up bikers for free along the route. We have seen a few cyclists already.

PEOPLE IN RURAL AMERICA
 Are extremely nice to you if you are riding a bicycle. They might be nice to other people too, but I haven't done the tests yet. So many people have helped us out, and I am not looking forward to sending all of the postcards we promised them. Three people have let us camp in their yards (invited us, no less), and one even cooked us pancakes. Others have given us rides to bike stores. When you tell someone you are biking across the country, they are often quite excited and willing to help out--as if they want to take part in the adventure.

RURAL AMERICA: RELIGIOUS AND PATRIOTIC
 The number of American flags per capita through Rural Virginia and Kentucky is baffling. Every house has a flag. I have seen a few signs that say "I support and pray for George W. Bush". Rural America is also very religious as far as I can tell. A church is on almost every corner (I never knew there were so many denominations of Baptists). I have seen many signs in front of people's houses listing the ten commandments. One woman, who gave me ride to a bike store, said a prayer for the broken crank arm on my bike.

NAME THAT ROADKILL
 An exciting and rewarding game my father and I have invented, in which we try to figure out what, exactly, is on the road. There are countless opportunities to play, and those of you who come to the slide show will get to play also!

THE VIRGINIA APPALACHIANS
 The Virginia Appalachians are steep and full of people trying to hike the Appalachian trail (none of whom know Andrea Les). The hills have been brutal--definitely the toughest bike touring I have ever done (the roads in the Rockies are supposed to be easier because the roads are newer and less steep.) One day we averaged under 8 mph for the day due to numerous hills and a fierce headwind. In all, these mountains are beautiful, with long mountain ridges separated by rolling valleys.

THE KENTUCKY APPALACHIANS--DON'T MINE COAL
 The Kentucky Appalachians are full of impoverished coal mining towns. It is unlike any place I have ever been before. Narrow valley with steep walls gives every town a clausterphobic feel. Small houses with poorly kept lawns sit right up next to the road. Many of the road gutters are lined with excessive amounts of trash. Most of the cars looked a decade old. One day, biking in the early afternoon on a weekday, I noticed that most of the people were at home, just sitting on the porch--don't they have something to do? The signs of coal mining are everywhere. Coal trucks passing us on the road (not fun). Pieces of coal line some of the roadsides, having fallen fromcoal trucks. We passed a few areas where the ground had been completely overturned for strip mining. After a big rain, the rivers (which are often filled with trash) turned and unnatural brown--we guessed it was from overturned earth from coal mining up stream.  
   I have never felt more out of place than one night we spent in Virgie, KY. We didn't make it to our campsite that night (mechanical problems—rear wheel), and we had to find a backyard or a park to bandit camp it. We asked around a local gym, school, and gas station. Most people didn't really seem to understand, and very few of them probably had enough of a lawn for us to sleep on. One man finally let us crash on his lawn.

DOGS VS. CYCLISTS
 Dogs everywhere seem to have a pact against cyclists. They yelp and bark and try to chase us if they aren't behind a fence or a leash (in which case they tug at the leash or beat against the fence). My favorite are the small dogs who run up to your side until you kick them off the road.

RAIN RAIN RAIN
 It's rained a lot.

DELAYS
 We have been full of delays on this trip. We had to have both of our rear wheels rebuilt after my father broke a number of spokes in his rear wheel (don't ever break down in Kentucky on a Saturday afternoon--nothing was open on Sunday, and we had to wait until Monday). My father also has been having some trouble with his leg, and we have spent a two days in the town Bardstown, KY (The bourbon capital of the world) resting him. WE ARE A WEEK AND A HALF BEHIND SCHEDULE for those of you who we might be meeting later on in the trip.  We may make up a lot of time, as it is now flat.

BIRDS--WHY MUST YOU SING SO EARLY IN THE MORNING?
 I've been learning much about birdsong as this trip goes on. My father is a 'world famous ornithologist' (so he tells me), and he is slowly imparting a very small part of this knowledge to me. Unfortunately, though, the birds start singing at 5:30. So, if we want to listen to them and be ready to go, we need to wake up at 5 or earlier.

HISTORY IN EASTERN VIRGINIA
 There is lots of it. I got sick of signs for civil war battle fields. We started at Yorktown, VA, which was the site of our victory over the British in the revolutionary war. We then went by Jamestown, the first successful British Colony in America. Exciting.

BROKEN SPOKES IN THE REAR WHEEL
 Is my least favorite thing.

MY BIKE'S NEW NAME
 Is the "QDR 10,000." Those of you on spring break 2003 know what QDR stands for.

IF YOU HAVE READ THIS FAR
 You get 20 points!!!!

 Anyway, if anything exciting is going on in your life, hit the reply key. Even if it is not, reply also. I probably can't respond very quickly, as there is not much internet along this route, but it would be great to hear
from you.

bike touring is fun!

--Dave